Wifi Hawthorn Dress

hawthorn dress

“Look at the lovely Japanese fabric I bought!”

“Why is it covered in wifi symbols?”

“It’s not! This is a traditional Japanese pattern, it looks like waves.”

“Radio waves? From the wifi?”

“….”

Last year I made a muslin of the Colette Hawthorn dress from Swedish Tracing Paper and it was a complete disaster. It didn’t fit at all and I had no idea why, so my Hawthorn pattern was cast into the back of my pattern stash never to be seen again. However, a combination of finding the perfect fabric for it at the Knitting and Stitching Show, being more confident at pattern alteration and having a few days free over Easter to devote to it persuaded me to try again. Look how she turned out!

hawthorn dress

The Pattern: Colette Hawthorn Dress

Described by Colette as a ‘curve-hugging classic that combines gamine styling with a flattering and feminine fit’, the Hawthorn dress has been on my radar for quite a while. I’m a sucker for a shirt dress and the flat collar gives it a slight twist which I think elevates it above some of the other offerings. I have quite a few patterns with gathered skirts, so I thought a smooth quarter circle skirt would make a nice change.

hawthorn dress

Hawthorn dress

Pattern Alterations

Part of the reason my last muslin was so off last time is that I am wildly across sizes on the pattern. My overbust is size 8, but I’m size 14 at the waist and hips. So, I traced out a size 8 bodice front and back onto parcel paper. I then performed a 1 inch full bust adjustment (FBA), adding in a bust dart. I made the waist dart smaller than the FBA called for in order to increase the waist size, shortened both the front and the back bodice pieces and added in a little width to both bodice pieces at the side seam. I sewed this up into a swedish tracing paper muslin and was very pleased with the fit. The only issue I had was that the armholes were too high up under my arms, so I cut this about an inch lower on the muslin and transferred this change back to the pattern. I then measured around the new armhole with a measuring tape and compared this to the different sleeve sizes and decided size 12 fit it best. So I ended up with a heavily modified size 8 bodice, size 12 sleeves and size 14 skirt. If you’re wildly off the pattern sizes and you aren’t happy to do a lot of alterations I would approach the Hawthorn dress with caution! That said, the fit has come out beautifully, so it was definitely worth the extra effort and I’m very pleased.

Hawthorn dress

Hawthorn dress

Construction

I found the construction fairly simple, having done collars and sleeves before. I opted to take the short sleeve from the top version and add it to the version 2 dress so that it would be nice and cool in the summer. The muslin had tight sleeves, so I let out a bit of the seam allowance in the final sleeve, which probably wasn’t necessary and has left them a bit boxy but I think it looks fine. I also added in-seam pockets and chopped a few inches off the skirt before hemming. This isn’t a quick and dirty pattern by any means – including all the pattern alterations and cutting out the fabric this took me the best part of three days, but I really enjoyed every minute of it. The instructions were clear and helpful throughout.

hawthorn dress

hawthorn dress

The Fabric

The main fabric is a gorgeous Japanese ‘dobby weave’ cotton, which I bought at the Knitting and Stitching Show from the Japan Crafts stall, which was overflowing with tempting prints. The fabric somehow manages to be soft to the touch with a gentle drape, but also has an almost rough texture.

For the pockets I used a very cute Japanese cotton kindly gifted by my parents’ Japanese lodger (ありがとう ございます!). Look!! I have cats in my pocket 😀 The fabric actually came with a label on it that read ‘Kawaii!!!’. Anyway, I digress.

The final fabric is a koi carp print from my stash to make the inside look a bit more jazzy.

hawthorn dress

Hawthorn dress

hawthorn dress

The Buttons

These buttons were also from the Knitting and Stitching Show, though I can’t remember the stall unfortunately. I think they’re absolutely gorgeous! So unusual. I actually bought them before the fabric and didn’t realise until I got home how lovely they looked together. Unfortunately this also meant that I didn’t really buy enough because I had no project in mind, which resulted in the buttons being further apart than they should have been on the dress.

Hawthorn dress

What Needs Changing?

This button spacing has led to the main issue with this dress – there’s some gaping at the bust where there should be a button! This weekend I sewed on a hook and eye which is pretty much invisible and just keeps the fabric closed; it looks much better and makes me feel more secure. The only other issues were some spots where the fabric pleated a little on the skirt and armholes, but I think I’m the only person who will notice, so I’m not too worried. Perhaps the skirt should have been a size down to fit the waist better?

hawthorn dress

The Verdict (In Which I Gush Unreservedly)

I am in love with this dress!! I have never managed to achieve such a perfect fit on a bodice before, so I am very chuffed. I owe a lot of this to the Craftsy course I took last summer, Sew the Perfect Fit, which I would highly recommend (affiliate link, but I genuinely think it’s great) – you can see my blog post about it here. In short, I’ll be wearing my Hawthorn dress a lot and I’ll be making a lot more of them! I can’t wait to try the three quarter length sleeves with the cuffs.

Happy Birthday, Summer Sun Bear!

summer sun bear

Wow, I made it! A whole year since I started this blogging malarkey!

summer sun bearI started Summer Sun Bear initially as a form of escapism – some personal issues last spring meant that I really needed an outlet and a distraction. Sewing is a lot cheaper than a therapist after all! I’ve loved completing projects and writing posts, but I’ve also discovered an amazing community of creatives online – always kind and encouraging with helpful advice. Being a part of such a lovely community helped me feel less isolated and alone, so thank you to you, dear reader!

I’ll let you in on a little secret. I’m really bad at finishing things. I have a tendency to get really excited about something and work on it obsessively for a little while and then get distracted by something newer and shinier and abandon it. I’m not proud of this – I try REALLY hard to finish stuff, but when I’ve lost the drive I just can’t keep it up. So I’m really proud that I’ve not only managed to finish so many sewing projects, but I’ve also managed to keep this blog going. I had a slump in the winter, which is my usual winter hibernation, but on the most part my posts have been getting better, my photos have been getting better and more of you have found my little sewing corner and come to say hello. If that’s not worth celebrating, I don’t know what is!

I’ve come a long way sewing-wise as well. I’ve tackled sleeves, collars, buttonholes, FBAs and many other pattern alterations. For most of my sewing career I had been sewing on a little Singer Featherweight, which I love, but it only does straight stitch and has a tendency to get birds nests, so the upgrade to my Pfaff last spring has opened many sewing doors.

To top the year off I thought I would pick five posts from the past year to share with you. I think they each represent an important step in my sewing journey and give you a taste of what I’m all about!

Spotty Mimi Blouse

mimi blouse

This blouse was a real achievement. I had never made a blouse or attached a collar, I don’t think I had even done any buttonholes with my buttonholer before (previous ones were shonkily hand stitched). I was also extremely lucky to have my mimi featured on Tilly’s blog, which was so flattering!

Circus Circle Skirt Pattern Tutorial

Circus Circle Skirt Pattern Tutorial

Glastonbury Circus Dress

This is the only pattern tutorial I’ve done so far (though I have others in mind for the future). This skirt is great for twirling in and I’d love to know if any of you have tried it out!

Red Roses Akita Blouse

akita blouse

This is the only Seamwork pattern I’ve made so far and it was super quick. I got a lot of amazing feedback on the photos for this blouse (thank you Ben!) – it was the first time I took any photos in public, which was totally cringe-worthy, but I’m getting better at controlling the embarrassment!

The Bodice Sloper Saga: Pattern Drafting

BodiceMuslin2.2

I drafted a bodice sloper! This was a massive step up in my sewing knowledge and the fitting knowledge I gained here has been shaping my sewing ever since (no pun intended, I wish I was that witty).

Coral Zig-Zag Moneta

moneta dress

This was a very early post and it shows – the photos are terrible! I may have tried to ‘warm’ the light by putting an orange Sainsbury’s bag over the flash… Errrr, yeah. Points for ingenuity maybe, but negative points for execution! However, this was the first time I had made anything from a knit fabric and I absolutely love it. I still wear this dress proudly. In fact, I really need to make another one of these. *hunts in stash hopefully for perfect fabric*.

So there we go, that’s been my year in sewing blog land. I’ve had a fantastic time doing it and I hope you’ve enjoyed hearing about it. I look forward to having you along for the next part of the ride :)

Golden Greenbacks Wallet

greenbacks wallet

I made a purse! I needed a purse, so I made a purse. Isn’t that an awesome thing to be able to say?

Golden Greenbacks Wallet - 3

The pattern:

The pattern I used is the Greenbacks Wallet by Sew Sweetness, which comes with pattern and instructions for three different wallets. I used version three for mine, which has card slots, a zipped coin purse and accordion sides to stop it flopping open. The instructions were pretty clear and contained photos for the trickier parts. It was definitely the nicest wallet I found when I was looking around, a lot of the patterns didn’t seem that practical, so I would recommend this one if you want a workhorse in your handbag.

Golden Greenbacks Wallet - 5

Construction:

It all went together pretty easily, though it gets tricker once the accordion has gone in because nothing will lie flat anymore, so the last few steps including the main zip are a little fiddly. The pattern calls for bias binding around the edge to finish the purse, but I thought this would detract from the vintage look I was going for, so I instead pressed the seam allowances of the gold fabric and pinned it in place before hand sewing it all the way around the edge. I think this was a good solution and looks pretty neat, though there are a couple of places where the frayed edges of the gold fabric have popped their little heads out. Nevermind, proves it’s homemade, right?

Golden Greenbacks Wallet - 1

The fabric:

The green spotty fabric is a quilting cotton from my stash. The purple is a japanese cotton, which I’ll tell you more about very soon. The gold fabric was kindly donated by Ben’s grandma when she was doing a clear out. I’m not sure what it is, something synthetic and it frays like nothing else, but it’s gold and shiny, so it’s worth the extra effort, right?!

Golden Greenbacks Wallet - 4

What needs changing?

This pattern is all about interfacing. I applied lightweight interfacing to all the inner pieces, heavy to the main lining piece and fleece to the outer shell. The pattern called for a foam rather than a fleece, but I couldn’t find any, so used the next best thing. I think it’s okay, but foam would probably have been a bit less flimsy. I might even try putting some card inside the outer shell as well. I would probably also go up to medium weight interfacing for the card slots next time – I’m not sure the lightweight is enough, especially on the side for notes where it had a tendency to gape a little. This gaping also means the interfacing is visible since the card slots are not lined with your patterned fabric. I think next time I will double over the card slot pieces to make the inside as pretty as the outside. Well, I wanted to learn about interfacing and I’ve tried a lot of different types now, so hopefully my next structured make will have a bit more, well, structure!

Lastly, I think I had my concealed zip hat on when I was sewing this, so I sewed very close to the zip teeth. This means the zips sometimes catch and need some encouragement to open (let’s call it a security feature). Pulling the zips open and closed a few times has loosened it up, but it’s something I’ll look out for in future.

Golden Greenbacks Wallet - 2

Verdict:

I’m really pleased with the overall look. The colours work well together and give the purse a nice vintage feel. The card slots are the right size for my cards and there’s plenty of them. I would definitely recommend the Greenbacks Wallet! It’s nice to try a project that has no fitting issues for once and it has pretty much all straight seams until you’ve inserted the accordion, so it sews up in no time.